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Cultura e outros tecidos: contributo para o estudo sobre a evolução do vestuário e a moda na Madeira, no período entre guerras (1918-1939)
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Abstract(s)
As décadas de 20 e 30 do século XX, repletas de acontecimentos, introduziram transformações relevantes, a vários níveis, por todo o mundo. No ocidente, após a I Grande Guerra e o tempo de crise que se seguiu, a economia desenvolveu-se e a moda foi uma das áreas que, nessa onda, se alterou também. Os grandes centros da moda eram, então, Paris e Londres. Este trabalho pretende enquadrar o Funchal na Europa no que respeita à moda, e mostrar as influências que tiveram as novas tendências, e os grandes centros que as difundiram, na indumentária feminina de alguns estratos da sociedade funchalense. As povoações do resto da ilha eram ainda muito ruralizadas e grande parte da população não era sequer alfabetizada, logo não lia jornais. Na cidade abriram-se novas lojas trazendo diferentes produtos: novos e variados tecidos, malas, meias e, às bancas, chegaram revistas com artigos sobre estas temáticas que estimularam o uso das novidades do vestuário e impulsionaram a expansão e democratização da moda e da atenção dada ao corpo, ao seu bem-estar e à sua apresentação. A análise de vários periódicos permitiu-nos constatar a forma como eram recebidas no Funchal estas novidades, como uma parte das senhoras funchalenses manifestavam grande preocupação em estar na moda;as crónicas a ela dedicadas; o tipo de texto usado;e o retrato social que faziam. O grande objetivo deste trabalho é, efetivamente, contribuir para um maior conhecimento dessa realidade no Funchal e, assim, para um melhor conhecimento da sua história e cultura.
The twenties and thirties of the twentieth century, were full of events and have introduced relevant transformations, at various levels, throughout the world. In the West, after World War I and the time of crisis that followed, the economy developed and fashion was one of the areas that, in this wave, also changed. During this time the great centers of fashion were Paris and London. This work intends to frame Funchal in Europe with regard to fashion, and show the influences that have had the new tendencies, and the great centers that spread them, in the feminine clothing of some strata of the society of Funchal. The settlements on the rest of the island were still very ruralized, and much of the population was not even literate, so they did not read newspapers. In the city new stores were opened bringing different products: new and varied fabrics, bags, socks and magazines. Magazines that arrived to the stands with articles on these themes that stimulated the use of clothing news and promoted the expansion and democratization of fashion and attention given to the body, its well-being and its presentation. The analysis of several newspapers allowed us to verify the way in which these news were received in Funchal, as a large part of the ladies of the city showed great concern to be fashionable, the articles dedicated to it; the type of text used, and the social picture they made. The main objective of this work is, effectively, to contribute to a better knowledge of this reality in Funchal and, thus, to a better knowledge of its history and culture.
The twenties and thirties of the twentieth century, were full of events and have introduced relevant transformations, at various levels, throughout the world. In the West, after World War I and the time of crisis that followed, the economy developed and fashion was one of the areas that, in this wave, also changed. During this time the great centers of fashion were Paris and London. This work intends to frame Funchal in Europe with regard to fashion, and show the influences that have had the new tendencies, and the great centers that spread them, in the feminine clothing of some strata of the society of Funchal. The settlements on the rest of the island were still very ruralized, and much of the population was not even literate, so they did not read newspapers. In the city new stores were opened bringing different products: new and varied fabrics, bags, socks and magazines. Magazines that arrived to the stands with articles on these themes that stimulated the use of clothing news and promoted the expansion and democratization of fashion and attention given to the body, its well-being and its presentation. The analysis of several newspapers allowed us to verify the way in which these news were received in Funchal, as a large part of the ladies of the city showed great concern to be fashionable, the articles dedicated to it; the type of text used, and the social picture they made. The main objective of this work is, effectively, to contribute to a better knowledge of this reality in Funchal and, thus, to a better knowledge of its history and culture.
Description
Keywords
Moda Vestuário Suplementos femininos Tendências Tecidos Cultura Capitais da moda Fashion Clothing Women´s supplements Tendency Textiles Culture Fashion capitals Gestão Cultural . Faculdade de Artes e Humanidades